Breeding_________________________________________________________________
The keys to creating the best chances
of successful ramphastid breeding seem to be:
1. Low iron diet
2. Moderately warm climate
3. Suitable nest log
4. Suitable aviary design
5. A healthy, compatible pair
Climate
and Air Quality:
In Riverbank’s experience, green aracaris and emerald toucanets can be bred
indoors in artificially heated and air-conditioned enclosures just as easily as
outdoors. These two species appear to be untroubled by conditioned (unnatural)
air, perhaps because they have been acclimated to captivity through many
generations of captive breeding. One would not expect other species of aracaris
and toucanets to be so easily bred indoors, unless they had regular access to
fresh air, or unless they too had undergone several generations of captive
breeding.
Air quality appears to be even more important when considering the large ramphastids. Indeed, Riverbanks has never bred any toco, keel-billed or chestnut-mandibled toucans indoors, in spite of the fact that our indoor exhibits are even larger and better planted than those outside. For such species that have been seldom bred in captivity, the reality of being outside, with access to fresh air, sunlight and rain, is at least as important as the aviary size and design. I am sure it is not impossible to breed large ramphastids indoors; and toucans kept in properly air-conditioned spaces seem to be just as healthy as specimens housed outside. However, it is our experience that toucans are considerably more likely to breed outside, especially in our relatively mild climate.
Climate is one of the keys to our
success. Toucans are able to live outside year-round without having to be
chased or transferred into a heated shelter. Moreover, the onset of summer
temperatures and higher levels of humidity in South Carolina equate to the
climatic changes the toucans would have experienced during the breeding season
in their countries of origin. Like the majority of the large toucan specimens
in captivity, our keel-billed toucans and chestnut-mandibled toucans are wild
caught. Our summer climate is therefore ideal for such birds and appears to be
a significant breeding stimulus. However, winter nighttime temperatures in
South Carolina get as low as 22 degrees Fahrenheit. These temperatures are
dangerously low and can cause frost bitten toes if the aviary is not properly
designed and furnished with a heat box. See Aviary Design. Even with the
best protection, toucans should not be expected to withstand such temperatures
for a prolonged period. In our region, relief is usually provided during the
day when winter temperatures rise to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. And often we
experience winter days of 60 or even 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Sunshine during the
winter is of great importance: the orientation of the aviary southward is
therefore highly beneficial.
Recently felled Palmetto palms can be tough and difficult for toucans to
excavate, even if a hole is started for them. Partly decomposed trunks are more
easily excavated, but it can take years for the tree to reach this stage of
decomposition. To save time, we slice the log either vertically or horizontally
with a chainsaw to expose the interior. The pulp is then cut away with the chainsaw according to the
dimensions described above. The halves are then reassembled and permanently
held together with metal bands.
"Bill fencing"prior to breeding is
sometimes highly vigorous to the point of being aggressive. The bill of one or
both birds may even be visibly scratched after such an encounter. However, this
behavior appears to be an important part of ramphastid courtship, and provided
the birds have a large aviary, neither bird should come to any harm.
Red-billed toucan excavating a nest cavity
Excavating their own cavity appears to represent an important part of
the breeding process for both sexes in all of the ramphastid species kept at
Riverbanks. It may help the pair to bond, and it certainly helps spark breeding
activity. To provide the illusion that they are excavating their own cavity, we
lightly pack the hollowed trunk with sphagnum moss, mud and bark mulch. In
fact, for our birds, excavating the log can be such an effective breeding
trigger that we carefully wait until the warm weather has arrived before
packing the logs. In 1977 we packed the log of the breeding pair of toco
toucans in February. The pair were so enthused, that they very excitedly
"excavated" the log and gave the impression that they were going to
breed. We were relieved when they in fact did not breed, since the weather was
still cold and could have injured eggs, chicks or the female during egg laying.
Typically we pack the toucan nest logs in April, or perhaps in March if it is
unseasonably warm.
Incubation:
Toco, keel-billed and chestnut-mandibled toucans: Incubation period
17-19 days. Fledging period 5-6 weeks. Juveniles are self-feeding at
approximately 9 weeks of age. We recommend that the juveniles be removed when
they are independent since their parents may become aggressive following a
desire to re-nest.
Saffron and emerald toucanets, and green aracaris: Incubation period 16 days.
Feeding Chicks:
Emerald
toucanet about to fledge 
All of our ramphastid species receive live, 1" long crickets shortly
before chicks are expected -- locusts would also be suitable. The crickets are
offered in a bucket or plastic aquarium that is left in the aviary
continuously. The container should have smooth sides that are about 12"
high. The crickets cannot escape and do not need to have their legs removed.
The birds have free access to the crickets which are fed to the chicks for the
first several days. Toco toucans appear to feed crickets for the first week or
two, although keel-billed toucans only seem to feed crickets for the first 2 or
3 days. Thereafter, an increasing amount of the adult diet is fed to the
chicks. Until the chicks fledge, we supplement the diet with raisins and extra
Hills Canine Kibble, both of which are soaked overnight in water. Pinkie mice
are also added to the diet until fledging. While it is impossible to predict
with certainty the feeding schedule and preferences of a given ramphastid
species, it is safe to say that if all of these foods are available to the
parents from day 1 of the chicks’ lives, the chances of success will be
maximized.
Large quantities of Canine Kibble and pinkie mice fed over a prolonged period are likely to invite iron storage disease. We recommend converting the juveniles to the adult diet (with strictly limited Canine Kibble, no meats and no raisins) as soon as possible. For all of the ramphastids in the Riverbanks collection, this is achieved by about 7 weeks of age.